| If you've ever wondered how
the tie became a sartorial necessity for doing serious business, read on.
This re-cap of its evolution appeared in our August 1986 catalog, well before
the advent of "dress down Fridays" when plenty of serious business gets
done anyway.
To learn How
to Tie a Windsor Knot (as well as a Half-Windsor
and others) print out our easy-to-follow instructions, and tape them next
to your mirror for practice.
Why a Tie?
It's a warm day. You're gazing
out your office window, watching casually dressed people cavort in the sun.
Fingering the mildly nooselike piece of silk around your neck. And wondering,
as you often do, "Why a Tie?"
Of course, because it's a social
necessity (a phrase with a horrible ring to it). But it goes much deeper
than that.
You may be surprised to learn
that the Tie isn't just some modern quirk. Or the result of a devious
plot by mercenary clothiers. (Although the tie industry did lead the movement
to establish Fathers' Day, for less than sentimental reasons.) It's the
proud product of thousands of years of evolution. It's got credentials!
It may have begun as a neckcloth
that soaked up the honest sweat of a primitive farmer as he bent over
his crop. Something similar marched into recorded history with the Roman
soldier, who wore it (and very little else) into battle. On the homefront
Cicero and other statesmen were tying strips of wool around their necks
to warm their vocal cords on chilly days.
So far, so good. Neckwear was
functional, understandable. But in the seventeenth century, a period eggheads
have perhaps mistakenly included in the Age of Reason, it veered into
the realm of Fashion. As you might imagine, the French had a hand in it.
(Next time you're dining in Paris, stiff your waiter on the tip.)
It happened this way. Boisterous
Croatian cavalrymen turned up in the court of Louis XIV, celebrating a
rout of the Turks. Around their necks they wore bright neck scarves, knotted
in front. (Protection against the werewolves who supposedly prowled their
native land.) Smitten French aristocrats copied the style, and called
it the cravate. The rest of the world copied the French aristocrats. That's
the way Fashion works Ñ you've probably noticed.
Cravatmania raged. Gaudy styles
proliferated. Soon, nearly one hundred different knots were recognized.
And seizing a man by his cravate came to be considered the grossest insult,
just as slicing somebody's tie in half with a scissors is frowned upon
today, unless you can prove a lineage to the Marx Brothers.
For some, the cravat acquired
an almost supernatural significance. These people stubbornly maintained
that Napoleon lost the Battle of Waterloo not through any strategic faux
pas, but because he wore a flowing white cravat rather than his customary
black neckerchief.
Eventually, in the no-nonsense
atmosphere of the Industrial Revolution, the cravat was judged foppish,
and faded away. The spartan string tie popularized by Abraham Lincoln
enjoyed a brief heyday. But then, in the late 1860's, the long tie we
wear today slithered forth, like the first reptile out of the primordial
slime.
In 1897, the Sears catalog
declared that "An untied man is an untidy man." The die was cast. And
a world tugged somewhat uneasily at its collar.
If tailored clothing is part
of your wardrobe, you may want to request a copy of our Lands'
End for Men catalog for a look.
|